Bonjour mes amis!
I normally wouldn't blog this soon after such a long post on Sunday, but today was approximately the best Wednesday (weekend, according to my students) ever. It was a lovely blustery spring day (well, it was lovely except for the intermittent torrential downpours) - such a nice change from the freezing cold we've been used to! Almost all of the assistants are free on Wednesday afternoons (if not all day), so we decided yesterday that we'd all get together today and make cupcakes from scratch. We ended up drinking champagne and making cupcakes all afternoon, and it was delightful! We made 3 large batches, so we ended up with vanilla, chocolate, and carrot cake (we grated the carrots ourselves!) cupcakes - although we didn't have an actual cupcake pan, so they were mostly amorphous blobs... They tasted good, though!
We decided we needed some real food after all the sugar (we HAD to taste the batter and icing to make sure they were OK... and not poisoned!), so we also ended up cooking dinner all together. There was an incident with the pepper grinder, however, and our pasta had half a pepper shaker's worth of whole peppercorns in it.. We spent about 10 minutes over the stove picking them out of the sauce (they really burned the fingertips), but we all still had quite a collection on the edge of our plates when we were done!
I hope you all had equally lovely Wednesdays - keep loving life!
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Adventures in Italy, Austria, and Germany (Warning: long post!)
Dear friends,
Hello once again from Nevers! I got back last night from an amazing 2-week trip around Italy, Austria, and a little bit of Germany. I went with my friend (and fellow assistant) Lizzi, and we had a great time and were both sad to be back in Nevers last night! We started our trip on Friday night, February 5. We left Nevers for Dijon at 5:23, so I practically skipped home from my last class and anxiously waited for Lizzi to come over so we could leave for the station – I had to force myself to vacuum and clean my room to keep myself from just bouncing around the apartment! We got to Dijon around 7 and went to grab some dinner before our night train to Rome was scheduled to leave at 9:37. We got to the station around 9 to see that our train had a 20 minute delay. That wasn’t too bad, but then it grew to 25 minutes, then 40, then an hour and 45 minutes, then THREE HOURS! We didn’t end up getting on the train until almost 1 AM, which was frustrating, but there was nothing we could do about it… The night train was a really weird experience – we had our own little compartment with bunk beds, a tiny wardrobe, a sink, and a mirror. Luckily I was exhausted, because I don’t think I would have been able to sleep otherwise! It’s a very odd sensation to be horizontal on a train in the dark when you’re trying to sleep – we were going through tunnels, which causes your ears to pop, and sometimes the train turns and your feet are above your head! We ended up being on the train for about 13 hours, so we were more than ready to get off when we finally arrived in Rome around 2:30 (of course, we were SUPPOSED to arrive around 10:15!).
As soon as we got off the train, we went to the National Museum of Rome, which had an impressive collection of Roman statues and busts, as well as a wonderful collection of coins from ancient Rome to modern times. Next stop was the Capuccin Crypt, which was SO cool. It’s the bones of more than 4,000 monks, artistically arranged into scenes and decorations, like chandeliers! Sadly, you aren’t allowed to take pictures inside, but I bought a cool postcard.
We hit a slight snag when we finally got to our hostel to check in. The main building was being renovated for the summer, so the woman who worked there walked us about 10 minutes away to another building that I suppose is owned by the hostel. We’d reserved an all-female room, and there was someone’s stuff in the room – stuff that clearly didn’t belong to a girl, and it really wasn’t what we’d reserved, so we had to go out and find another hotel, because neither of us really wanted to/felt comfortable staying there. We ended up finding a pretty nice hotel that wasn’t too expensive when split 2 ways, and it included a delicious breakfast buffet – of course, we got very good and smuggling food out for lunch!
We went for a walk around Rome our first night there – it’s absolutely beautiful! We saw the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain – Rome has lovely fountains, which look pretty both in the day and night.
We had gorgeous sunny weather for our second and third days in Rome, so on Sunday we went to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill (where all the emperors used to build their palaces, it’s actually where the word ‘palace’ comes from). They were both amazing, and it was incredible to be around things that are just so OLD! Our next stop was the Pantheon, which we had a bit of trouble finding… Rome doesn’t have the greatest signage for its tourist attractions, so I’m pretty sure we walked all the way around the Pantheon before we actually found it! The first two kings of Italy are buried there, and so is the artist Raphael. We had an afternoon reservation at the Borghese Gallery, so we meandered up to the north of the city, stopping at the Trevi Fountain (again) for a gelato break. The Borghese Gallery is a great private collection of art – lots and lots of beautiful Bernini sculptures – in a beautiful former cardinal’s mansion in a park to the north of the city.
We were surprised to find that Santa Maria Maggiore, the church just up the street from our hotel, had banners up advertising that the relic of Sainte Bernadette would be there on February 9 and 10 – Sainte Bernadette “lives” (well, her body reposes) in Nevers! Lizzi is doing her year abroad project on Bernie (as we call her), and was quite perturbed that this dead saint is following her around Europe…
On Monday morning we had reservations for the Vatican Museum, which was HUGE (it has 4 miles of displays!). We were both exhausted (from Lizzi’s 21st birthday festivities the night before), so we didn’t spend too much time inside, but we DID get to see the Sistine Chapel! I have to say, it wasn’t at all what I was expecting – the “man touching God” part of the ceiling is only one small part of the ceiling, which is covered in lots of smaller frescoes. It was a wonderful museum, though, although we had some trouble figuring out how to actually exit the building, which would also prove to be a recurring theme of the trip. After the Vatican Museum we headed down the street to Saint Peter’s Basilica, the biggest church in the world (incidentally, it’s in the smallest sovereign state in the world, the Vatican City!). The basilica was HUGE (clearly) and gorgeous inside – it also has Michelangelo’s Pietà , which is absolutely beautiful. (It’s Mary holding Jesus’ body.) Saint Peter’s Square is also enormous, although it didn’t seem as big as it always looks on TV… We didn’t see the Pope, unfortunately, although we had been hoping to run into him. I also visited the Victor Emmanuel Monument that afternoon, a monument to Italy’s first king. It’s epically large, and really pretty, and offers a really good view of Rome from the top! We visited St. Peter in Chains church that night before dinner – Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to build it as his tomb, so it has a wonderful Michelangelo statue of Moses. It also holds the chains that held St. Peter (apparently)!
Tuesday morning we headed to Florence, where we started by wandering around the city for a few hours. We climbed the Duomo, which, at 463 stairs, is the highest church dome/tower I’ve ever climbed! The church is made of white, pink, and green marble, so it was an interesting change from all the grey stone cathedrals you see in France. The top of the dome gave a wonderful view of Florence and the beautiful surrounding Tuscan countryside, so it was definitely worth the deep burn! We spent a while zig-zagging across the Ponte Vecchio, the covered bridge in Florence that has tons and tons of jewelry shops with sparkly window displays. We visited the Uffizi Gallery and the Galleria dell’ Accademia on Tuesday, and I got to see – with my own eyes – several works of art that I’d only ever seen in textbooks! We saw Botticelli’s Primavera and The Birth of Venus and Michelangelo’s David. I think the David is my favorite work of art I’ve ever seen – you turn a corner in the gallery, and BAM, there it is! It’s much bigger than I expected it to be, and it really took my breath away. After all of our culturedness, we walked out to an overlook/park that’s a little ways out of the city – it’s up on a hill, so it had a really good view of the city.
On Wednesday morning we headed to Venice, which is about 2 hours by train from Florence. I absolutely loved Venice; it’s kind of magical in that it doesn’t quite feel real. It was during Carnevale that we were there, so it was really cool to see lots of people walking around in full costume and masks. We took lots of vaporetto (bus-boats) rides and spent hours just wandering through the back streets and canals, getting lost then finding ourselves again. The Basilica of San Marco, on the Piazza San Marco, is stupendous, and lovely both inside and out. We visited the Palazzo Ducale, which is where the Doge (like a duke, but he didn’t really have much actual power, from what we could figure out during the visit) lived. It was beautiful inside, and it also gave us admission to another museum across the Piazza where they had an awesome collection of sketches of Venice.
We headed to Vienna on Saturday morning, and spent most of the day (7 hours) in transit. We had to cross through the Italian Alps, so we had amazing views from the bus and train – there were lots of skiers on our train! We spent our first night in Vienna at my flatmate’s friend’s apartment – she goes to school in Vienna, and her apartment is amazing! We went out to a club with Sarah (my flatmate), Hannes (her boyfriend), and Katrin (her friend, with whom we were staying), and it ended up being a good time, although Lizzi and I were super tired and were not excited about it at the beginning! It was VERY cold (well below freezing) while we were in Vienna, so we spent most of Sunday in museums to escape the snow and ice. We spent a good few hours in the Kunsthistorisches Museum, which had an incredible (and very well-organized) collection of paintings by the European masters, as well as an interesting temporary exhibition on Vermeer’s The Art of Painting. We spent the afternoon in the Hofburg Imperial Palace, where the Hapsburg ruling family lived. We got to go through part of the palace’s collection of dishes and tableware, and they had rooms and rooms of incredible place settings and cutlery. The actual living quarters of the palace were amazing, and we got to learn lots about Franz Josef and his wife Elizabeth, known as “Sisi,” who sounds like she was an actual toolbag. She spent TWO hours a day brushing her hair! Sunday night we went to the Haus der Musik, which was an awesome interactive music museum – we got to ‘compose’ our own Viennese waltz, and we also got to conduct the Viennese Philharmonic Orchestra – I felt like a kid, and it was so much fun!
On Monday we went to the Schonbrunn Palace, which was the summer residence of the Hapbsburgs (who normally lived at the Hofburg) - it was a palace on par with Versailles, and it was a very worthwhile visit. Our ticket also covered the palace gardens, which I think were lost on us because they were all covered in snow. The cathedral in Vienna is also beautiful, all Gothic and pretty, so after visiting that we did a bit of wandering around before dinner. Food in Austria is amazing, and it was much cheaper than in France! Lizzi and I each got a huge plate of food (far more than we could ever eat) and 2 big beers for only €12 each!
After Vienna, we headed to Salzburg, which is definitely one of my favorite places we visited. We were basically staying in a B&B, although our room was in this hilarious Austrian woman’s basement. Her name was Brigitte, and she was really making us laugh. She was probably in her late 60s, and she brought our breakfast to our room both mornings – where our bed was this wicker contraption that we compared to Moses’ basket… We were a little afraid of waking up in the river! She also forgot to explain how to use the COIN-OPERATED SHOWER, so we were just standing there trying to figure out how to get the water hot when, luckily, an American woman who was in the room across the hall came out and told us we had to use the tokens that were on our table. Needless to say, it was rather hilarious, especially because we thought that we only had one token for each day and did a shower relay, sprinting down the hall in our towels to maximize the hot water usage! We did a lot of wandering in Salzburg, although we also visited Mozart’s apartment (although not his birthplace, because apparently there isn’t as much to actually see in his birthplace) and the Hohensalzburg Fortress, a huge medieval fortress up on the hill overlooking the city. It’s a very cute town, and they filmed The Sound of Music there, so we got to see lots of those sights as well.
Our last stop was Munich, where we arrived on Thursday morning. I really liked the city – it’s elegant, and it feels like a city without being overwhelmingly big. The Rathaus (the town hall) is beautiful, and it has lots of pretty churches to visit. We did a trip out to Dachau on Friday morning to visit the concentration camp. It was freezing and snowy, but incredibly worthwhile. We ended up spending about 4 hours there – the museum is really well-done, and of course we spent a lot of time just walking through the camp. If any of you is ever in Munich, you definitely should make the trip out to Dachau, it only takes about 30 minutes on the S-bahn.
We traveled all day yesterday – left Munich at 9:23 AM and arrived in Nevers at 8:30 PM, and now I’m trying to prepare myself for the realization that I actually have to go back to work tomorrow!
Hello once again from Nevers! I got back last night from an amazing 2-week trip around Italy, Austria, and a little bit of Germany. I went with my friend (and fellow assistant) Lizzi, and we had a great time and were both sad to be back in Nevers last night! We started our trip on Friday night, February 5. We left Nevers for Dijon at 5:23, so I practically skipped home from my last class and anxiously waited for Lizzi to come over so we could leave for the station – I had to force myself to vacuum and clean my room to keep myself from just bouncing around the apartment! We got to Dijon around 7 and went to grab some dinner before our night train to Rome was scheduled to leave at 9:37. We got to the station around 9 to see that our train had a 20 minute delay. That wasn’t too bad, but then it grew to 25 minutes, then 40, then an hour and 45 minutes, then THREE HOURS! We didn’t end up getting on the train until almost 1 AM, which was frustrating, but there was nothing we could do about it… The night train was a really weird experience – we had our own little compartment with bunk beds, a tiny wardrobe, a sink, and a mirror. Luckily I was exhausted, because I don’t think I would have been able to sleep otherwise! It’s a very odd sensation to be horizontal on a train in the dark when you’re trying to sleep – we were going through tunnels, which causes your ears to pop, and sometimes the train turns and your feet are above your head! We ended up being on the train for about 13 hours, so we were more than ready to get off when we finally arrived in Rome around 2:30 (of course, we were SUPPOSED to arrive around 10:15!).
As soon as we got off the train, we went to the National Museum of Rome, which had an impressive collection of Roman statues and busts, as well as a wonderful collection of coins from ancient Rome to modern times. Next stop was the Capuccin Crypt, which was SO cool. It’s the bones of more than 4,000 monks, artistically arranged into scenes and decorations, like chandeliers! Sadly, you aren’t allowed to take pictures inside, but I bought a cool postcard.
We hit a slight snag when we finally got to our hostel to check in. The main building was being renovated for the summer, so the woman who worked there walked us about 10 minutes away to another building that I suppose is owned by the hostel. We’d reserved an all-female room, and there was someone’s stuff in the room – stuff that clearly didn’t belong to a girl, and it really wasn’t what we’d reserved, so we had to go out and find another hotel, because neither of us really wanted to/felt comfortable staying there. We ended up finding a pretty nice hotel that wasn’t too expensive when split 2 ways, and it included a delicious breakfast buffet – of course, we got very good and smuggling food out for lunch!
We went for a walk around Rome our first night there – it’s absolutely beautiful! We saw the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain – Rome has lovely fountains, which look pretty both in the day and night.
We had gorgeous sunny weather for our second and third days in Rome, so on Sunday we went to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill (where all the emperors used to build their palaces, it’s actually where the word ‘palace’ comes from). They were both amazing, and it was incredible to be around things that are just so OLD! Our next stop was the Pantheon, which we had a bit of trouble finding… Rome doesn’t have the greatest signage for its tourist attractions, so I’m pretty sure we walked all the way around the Pantheon before we actually found it! The first two kings of Italy are buried there, and so is the artist Raphael. We had an afternoon reservation at the Borghese Gallery, so we meandered up to the north of the city, stopping at the Trevi Fountain (again) for a gelato break. The Borghese Gallery is a great private collection of art – lots and lots of beautiful Bernini sculptures – in a beautiful former cardinal’s mansion in a park to the north of the city.
We were surprised to find that Santa Maria Maggiore, the church just up the street from our hotel, had banners up advertising that the relic of Sainte Bernadette would be there on February 9 and 10 – Sainte Bernadette “lives” (well, her body reposes) in Nevers! Lizzi is doing her year abroad project on Bernie (as we call her), and was quite perturbed that this dead saint is following her around Europe…
On Monday morning we had reservations for the Vatican Museum, which was HUGE (it has 4 miles of displays!). We were both exhausted (from Lizzi’s 21st birthday festivities the night before), so we didn’t spend too much time inside, but we DID get to see the Sistine Chapel! I have to say, it wasn’t at all what I was expecting – the “man touching God” part of the ceiling is only one small part of the ceiling, which is covered in lots of smaller frescoes. It was a wonderful museum, though, although we had some trouble figuring out how to actually exit the building, which would also prove to be a recurring theme of the trip. After the Vatican Museum we headed down the street to Saint Peter’s Basilica, the biggest church in the world (incidentally, it’s in the smallest sovereign state in the world, the Vatican City!). The basilica was HUGE (clearly) and gorgeous inside – it also has Michelangelo’s Pietà , which is absolutely beautiful. (It’s Mary holding Jesus’ body.) Saint Peter’s Square is also enormous, although it didn’t seem as big as it always looks on TV… We didn’t see the Pope, unfortunately, although we had been hoping to run into him. I also visited the Victor Emmanuel Monument that afternoon, a monument to Italy’s first king. It’s epically large, and really pretty, and offers a really good view of Rome from the top! We visited St. Peter in Chains church that night before dinner – Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to build it as his tomb, so it has a wonderful Michelangelo statue of Moses. It also holds the chains that held St. Peter (apparently)!
Tuesday morning we headed to Florence, where we started by wandering around the city for a few hours. We climbed the Duomo, which, at 463 stairs, is the highest church dome/tower I’ve ever climbed! The church is made of white, pink, and green marble, so it was an interesting change from all the grey stone cathedrals you see in France. The top of the dome gave a wonderful view of Florence and the beautiful surrounding Tuscan countryside, so it was definitely worth the deep burn! We spent a while zig-zagging across the Ponte Vecchio, the covered bridge in Florence that has tons and tons of jewelry shops with sparkly window displays. We visited the Uffizi Gallery and the Galleria dell’ Accademia on Tuesday, and I got to see – with my own eyes – several works of art that I’d only ever seen in textbooks! We saw Botticelli’s Primavera and The Birth of Venus and Michelangelo’s David. I think the David is my favorite work of art I’ve ever seen – you turn a corner in the gallery, and BAM, there it is! It’s much bigger than I expected it to be, and it really took my breath away. After all of our culturedness, we walked out to an overlook/park that’s a little ways out of the city – it’s up on a hill, so it had a really good view of the city.
On Wednesday morning we headed to Venice, which is about 2 hours by train from Florence. I absolutely loved Venice; it’s kind of magical in that it doesn’t quite feel real. It was during Carnevale that we were there, so it was really cool to see lots of people walking around in full costume and masks. We took lots of vaporetto (bus-boats) rides and spent hours just wandering through the back streets and canals, getting lost then finding ourselves again. The Basilica of San Marco, on the Piazza San Marco, is stupendous, and lovely both inside and out. We visited the Palazzo Ducale, which is where the Doge (like a duke, but he didn’t really have much actual power, from what we could figure out during the visit) lived. It was beautiful inside, and it also gave us admission to another museum across the Piazza where they had an awesome collection of sketches of Venice.
We headed to Vienna on Saturday morning, and spent most of the day (7 hours) in transit. We had to cross through the Italian Alps, so we had amazing views from the bus and train – there were lots of skiers on our train! We spent our first night in Vienna at my flatmate’s friend’s apartment – she goes to school in Vienna, and her apartment is amazing! We went out to a club with Sarah (my flatmate), Hannes (her boyfriend), and Katrin (her friend, with whom we were staying), and it ended up being a good time, although Lizzi and I were super tired and were not excited about it at the beginning! It was VERY cold (well below freezing) while we were in Vienna, so we spent most of Sunday in museums to escape the snow and ice. We spent a good few hours in the Kunsthistorisches Museum, which had an incredible (and very well-organized) collection of paintings by the European masters, as well as an interesting temporary exhibition on Vermeer’s The Art of Painting. We spent the afternoon in the Hofburg Imperial Palace, where the Hapsburg ruling family lived. We got to go through part of the palace’s collection of dishes and tableware, and they had rooms and rooms of incredible place settings and cutlery. The actual living quarters of the palace were amazing, and we got to learn lots about Franz Josef and his wife Elizabeth, known as “Sisi,” who sounds like she was an actual toolbag. She spent TWO hours a day brushing her hair! Sunday night we went to the Haus der Musik, which was an awesome interactive music museum – we got to ‘compose’ our own Viennese waltz, and we also got to conduct the Viennese Philharmonic Orchestra – I felt like a kid, and it was so much fun!
On Monday we went to the Schonbrunn Palace, which was the summer residence of the Hapbsburgs (who normally lived at the Hofburg) - it was a palace on par with Versailles, and it was a very worthwhile visit. Our ticket also covered the palace gardens, which I think were lost on us because they were all covered in snow. The cathedral in Vienna is also beautiful, all Gothic and pretty, so after visiting that we did a bit of wandering around before dinner. Food in Austria is amazing, and it was much cheaper than in France! Lizzi and I each got a huge plate of food (far more than we could ever eat) and 2 big beers for only €12 each!
After Vienna, we headed to Salzburg, which is definitely one of my favorite places we visited. We were basically staying in a B&B, although our room was in this hilarious Austrian woman’s basement. Her name was Brigitte, and she was really making us laugh. She was probably in her late 60s, and she brought our breakfast to our room both mornings – where our bed was this wicker contraption that we compared to Moses’ basket… We were a little afraid of waking up in the river! She also forgot to explain how to use the COIN-OPERATED SHOWER, so we were just standing there trying to figure out how to get the water hot when, luckily, an American woman who was in the room across the hall came out and told us we had to use the tokens that were on our table. Needless to say, it was rather hilarious, especially because we thought that we only had one token for each day and did a shower relay, sprinting down the hall in our towels to maximize the hot water usage! We did a lot of wandering in Salzburg, although we also visited Mozart’s apartment (although not his birthplace, because apparently there isn’t as much to actually see in his birthplace) and the Hohensalzburg Fortress, a huge medieval fortress up on the hill overlooking the city. It’s a very cute town, and they filmed The Sound of Music there, so we got to see lots of those sights as well.
Our last stop was Munich, where we arrived on Thursday morning. I really liked the city – it’s elegant, and it feels like a city without being overwhelmingly big. The Rathaus (the town hall) is beautiful, and it has lots of pretty churches to visit. We did a trip out to Dachau on Friday morning to visit the concentration camp. It was freezing and snowy, but incredibly worthwhile. We ended up spending about 4 hours there – the museum is really well-done, and of course we spent a lot of time just walking through the camp. If any of you is ever in Munich, you definitely should make the trip out to Dachau, it only takes about 30 minutes on the S-bahn.
We traveled all day yesterday – left Munich at 9:23 AM and arrived in Nevers at 8:30 PM, and now I’m trying to prepare myself for the realization that I actually have to go back to work tomorrow!
Thursday, February 4, 2010
A pre-trip update
Dear friends,
Bonjour from Nevers! Several other assistants and I spent last weekend celebrating some birthdays in a small town about 20 minutes from Nevers called La Charité sur Loire – I wrote about it last time. It was a great weekend – we had a party on Friday night, then spent Saturday exploring the town. It’s pretty small, but very pretty! It’s also right along the Loire River, so there was a beautiful view from the ramparts on top of the hill that overlooks the town. The cathedral is also really old (from the 1100s, I believe), and the town just has a lot of quaint character.
Most of this week has been occupied with making Valentine’s Day heart cards with my classes (they’ve been loving it!) and taking care of final trip preparations. I honestly can’t believe I’m leaving tomorrow night for 2 whole weeks; I’m sure the next time I post it’ll be pages long! Lizzi and I are leaving Nevers at 5:23 tomorrow night for Dijon, where we’ll have about 2 hours for dinner before our night train leaves. We’ll arrive Saturday morning in Rome, where we’ll spend 3 days. After that it’s Florence, Venice, Vienna, Salzburg, and Munich before heading back to Nevers on Saturday, the 20th. I have no idea how I’ll be able to pay any attention at all to my classes tomorrow; I’m going to be too excited!
I hope all is well with all of you, my next post should be full of tales of my travels!
Bonjour from Nevers! Several other assistants and I spent last weekend celebrating some birthdays in a small town about 20 minutes from Nevers called La Charité sur Loire – I wrote about it last time. It was a great weekend – we had a party on Friday night, then spent Saturday exploring the town. It’s pretty small, but very pretty! It’s also right along the Loire River, so there was a beautiful view from the ramparts on top of the hill that overlooks the town. The cathedral is also really old (from the 1100s, I believe), and the town just has a lot of quaint character.
Most of this week has been occupied with making Valentine’s Day heart cards with my classes (they’ve been loving it!) and taking care of final trip preparations. I honestly can’t believe I’m leaving tomorrow night for 2 whole weeks; I’m sure the next time I post it’ll be pages long! Lizzi and I are leaving Nevers at 5:23 tomorrow night for Dijon, where we’ll have about 2 hours for dinner before our night train leaves. We’ll arrive Saturday morning in Rome, where we’ll spend 3 days. After that it’s Florence, Venice, Vienna, Salzburg, and Munich before heading back to Nevers on Saturday, the 20th. I have no idea how I’ll be able to pay any attention at all to my classes tomorrow; I’m going to be too excited!
I hope all is well with all of you, my next post should be full of tales of my travels!
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